Taipei is one of those cities where it is almost impossible to walk around without stopping for food. Between the busy streets, glowing signs and tiny restaurants, there is always something tempting you inside.
We started our first evening in Ximending, one of Taipei’s liveliest neighbourhoods and a great area to experience the city for the first time.
Table of Contents
- An Evening in Ximending
- Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle 阿宗麵線
- Tian Tian Li 天天利美食坊
- Fuhong Beef Noodles 富宏牛肉麵
- Shopping at DON DON DONKI
- Brown Sugar Bubble Tea at Xing Fu Tang 幸福堂
- A Rainy Morning at Coffee Dumbo 登波咖啡
- Is Ximending Worth Visiting?
An Evening in Ximending
Ximending is loud, colourful and full of energy. The pedestrian streets are lined with clothing shops, beauty stores, arcades and restaurants, while food stalls appear between the buildings.
Music comes from different directions and street performers attract small crowds in the middle of the pedestrian district. One moment you smell something sweet cooking nearby, and the next, the unmistakable smell of stinky tofu takes over the entire street.
It can feel busy and slightly chaotic, but that is part of the experience. I walked around with a clear plan: to try every restaurant and food stall I had saved in the area, or at least that was what I thought. Being the foodie that I am, I had saved quite a few places, but it quickly became clear that I would never have enough appetite to visit them all. So, here are my top picks.
Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle 阿宗麵線
Our first stop was Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle, one of Ximending’s most famous street food institutions.
The small shop serves only one speciality: a thick bowl of Taiwanese flour vermicelli with pieces of pork intestine. Besides a few plastic stools around the restaurant, there are no tables or chairs, so everyone stands outside eating from paper bowls while people continue passing through the narrow street.
The noodles were very soft and almost silky, sitting in a hot, savoury broth. The pieces of intestine were chewy and did not have an overpowering flavour. It was warm, comforting and much tastier than its appearance might initially suggest.
Ay-Chung is extremely popular and can feel touristy, but the line normally moves quickly. Reviews are sometimes divided because of the soft texture and thick broth, but it remains worth trying at least once, especially if you are comfortable eating pork intestines.
Tian Tian Li 天天利美食坊
My second stop was Tian Tian Li, a small and busy restaurant known for its braised pork rice topped with a fried egg.
You cannot come to this part of Asia and not have rice and pork at least once. The bowl was simple but satisfying, with steamed rice covered in savoury minced pork and a freshly fried egg on top. The edges of the egg were crispy, while the yolk remained runny and mixed perfectly into the rice. This you can only find in Asia.
The portion was just enough, especially when you are planning to continue eating elsewhere afterwards. The flavour of the pork was not overly heavy or strongly spiced, making it an easy and comforting dish.
Local guides often mention that Tian Tian Li’s braised pork (also known as Lu Rou Fan 滷肉飯) is leaner than versions served elsewhere in Taipei. It may not be the richest braised pork rice in the city, but the runny egg makes the bowl much more indulgent. The restaurant is inexpensive, fast and usually crowded, which is all part of the experience.
Fuhong Beef Noodles 富宏牛肉麵
My final proper meal of the evening was at Fuhong Beef Noodles, an old-fashioned restaurant located a short walk north of Ximending, a more residential and not so busy area.
The restaurant is simple and casual, with bowls arriving quickly and several sauces and condiments already waiting on the tables.
The noodles were thick and incredibly chewy, exactly the texture we were hoping for. The beef was the highlight, cooked until it almost melted in the mouth. The broth itself was lighter, but that allowed me to adjust it using the condiments on the table.
There was spicy beef oil, chilli sauce, chilli powder and pickled vegetables.
Also ordered pork dumplings on the side. They were simple, filling and perfect for dipping into the available sauces.
Opinions about Fuhong often vary because some people expect a much richer broth. However, its springy noodles, tender beef and selection of condiments make it a satisfying and affordable introduction to Taiwanese beef noodles.
Shopping at DON DON DONKI
With no space left for another full meal, we finished the evening at DON DON DONKI.
If you been to Asia and specially Japan, you know what I’m talking about. The Japanese discount store sells almost everything imaginable, from snacks and cosmetics to household products and completely unnecessary items that somehow end up inside your basket. It is chaotic, bright and dangerously easy to spend far more time inside than planned.
Naturally, I left with a few useless purchases and singning the famous Don Don Donki song.
Brown Sugar Bubble Tea at Xing Fu Tang 幸福堂
Before leaving Ximending, I made room for one last drink at Xing Fu Tang, a Taiwanese bubble tea shop famous for its brown sugar tapioca pearls.
The pearls are prepared fresh in front of you, coated in warm brown sugar and added directly to the milk. Watching them being made is part of the experience.
I expected the drink to be overwhelmingly sweet, but it was surprisingly balanced. The warm tapioca pearls were soft and chewy, with a caramelised brown sugar flavour, while the cold milk kept everything refreshing. It had just the right amount of sweetness and was easily one of the best things we tried that evening.
A Rainy Morning at Coffee Dumbo 登波咖啡
The following morning, I escaped the rain at Coffee Dumbo, a small retro café on Chifeng Street.
The café feels playful and full of personality. Colourful furniture, unusual lamps, illustrations and vintage decorations fill the room, while vinyl records and a proper sound system contribute to its nostalgic atmosphere. It feels inspired by the colourful and carefree side of the 1990s without looking like a themed attraction.
When I arrived, Paul McCartney was playing. The staff seemed genuinely happy to be there, singing along to the music and adding to the relaxed atmosphere.
Reviews strongly suggest to try the apple americano and the cinnamon roll, so I did that. I’m not the biggest americano drinker, but this version of americano was to die for. The apple gave the coffee a fruity and refreshing twist, while the warm cinnamon roll was exactly what we needed on a rainy morning.
The café is relatively small, so it may be difficult to find a seat during busy periods, but it is worth visiting if you enjoy coffee shops with a distinctive personality.
Is Ximending Worth Visiting?
Ximending may be one of Taipei’s most popular and touristy areas, but it is still a fun place to spend an evening.
The neighbourhood brings together street food, shopping, music and entertainment within a compact and walkable area. Some of its famous restaurants are surrounded by hype, but they offer an easy introduction to several Taiwanese classics without having to travel far across the city.
Come hungry, share the portions whenever possible and do not be afraid to experiment with the sauces available on the tables. The best part of eating around Ximending is being able to try several completely different dishes in a single evening.