Maumere Travel Guide: Remote Beaches, Coral Reefs & Island Hopping in East Flores
Once a popular tourist hub in the 1970s and ’80s—on par with Labuan Bajo—Maumere earned its reputation as a diving and snorkeling hotspot in eastern Flores. That all changed on December 12, 1992, when a 7.7-magnitude earthquake and massive tsunami destroyed about 90% of the town’s buildings, claimed around 1,500 lives, and devastated nearby islands like Babi. The town’s tourism infrastructure collapsed, and Maumere faded from the travel radar.
Today, Maumere quietly rebuilds—its reefs are recovering, and a very small fishing-town vibe remains. We didn’t visit the town itself; instead, we stayed just outside, on the coast. It was the perfect spot to unwind—snorkeling off the beach, island hopping, and soaking in the calm rhythm of life before moving on to Komodo.
Table of Contents
- Maumere Travel Guide: Remote Beaches, Coral Reefs & Island Hopping in East Flores
Getting to Maumere
Maumere is one of the main gateways to East Flores and has a small domestic airport, Frans Seda Airport (MOF), with daily flights to and from Kupang, and a few flights to Labuan Bajo operated by Wings Air. If you’re traveling overland across Flores, you can reach Maumere by private car or local bus from places like Moni, Ende, or even Bajawa.
From Moni, the scenic drive to Maumere takes around 3–4 hours, depending on road conditions and stops. We rented a car with driver so we had the freedom to make a scenic stop at Koka Beach.
Where We Stayed: Coconut Garden Beach Resort
We spent three nights at the Coconut Garden Beach Resort, a peaceful eco-resort just outside of Maumere. The vibe was laid-back and remote—flip-flops only, salty hair, and quiet nights.
All cottages are right on the beach, with shell-decorated pathways and sandy floors leading to your door. The open-air bathrooms were beautiful, decorated with coral and seashells, and surrounded by tropical greenery. It’s the kind of place where you shower under the stars and fall asleep to the sound of waves. Except sometimes, when the local neighbor of the resort was playing loud music. Remember to always bring earplugs when traveling.
Service here was warm but relaxed—freshly prepared meals could take a while, so order ahead and embrace the slow rhythm.
Our 3-Day Maumere Itinerary
Day 1: From Moni to Maumere, with a stop at Koka Beach
We originally planned to stay three nights in Moni but ended up shortening our visit by a day. The village was smaller than expected, and we’d already seen most of the surrounding sights. So, we packed our bags and arranged a driver to take us to Maumere, with a stop at Koka Beach on the way.
Koka Beach is actually made up of two bays, separated by a small rocky headland. Normally there’s a small entrance fee paid to the locals who own the land, but none of the ticket booths were staffed when we passed through. The beach itself was quiet and beautiful, with turquoise water, white sand, and lush green hills around it. We spent a little while soaking in the views before continuing on.
By lunchtime we reached Coconut Garden Beach Resort, just outside Maumere. This small eco-resort sits right on the beach, with charming wooden cottages surrounded by gardens and seashells. All the cottages are just steps away from the sand, and the whole place has that flip-flop-only, slow-living vibe. Our room had an outdoor bathroom, which felt like a little jungle oasis—decorated with shells and natural textures. Food here was made fresh to order, which meant meals took time, but we didn’t mind. We’d come here to do exactly that: slow down.
Day 2: A Sunny Surprise and Some Lazy Beach Time
We’d expected rain, but instead we woke up to sunshine and coconut pancakes. After breakfast we decided to go snorkeling right in front of the hotel. Because of the tide, we had to swim quite far out to reach the reef—but along the way we saw lots of bright blue sea stars. The coral wasn’t the most colorful we’ve seen, but there were still fish and some interesting formations.
The rest of the day was wonderfully slow. We had a long lunch, read, relaxed in the shade, and played Monopoly Deal while listening to the waves.
Day 3: Snorkeling Tour to Remote Islands
This was the highlight of our stay. We arranged a snorkeling tour through the resort, which took us to three remote spots:
Pengabatang: A nice reef with a variety of coral and fish. This was also the spot where we saw a visible line in the reef—a break caused by the 1992 tsunami, which affected many coastal areas in this part of Flores.
Babi Island: Also known as Pulau Babi, or Pigs Island. A tiny, green island with a local fishing village. The reef here wasn’t the best (there were quite a few jellyfish), but the island itself was memorable. There’s no tourist infrastructure—just a few wooden homes, boats, and kids playing in the white sand. The children were excited to meet us, happily posing for photos. The island was hit hard by the 1992 tsunami, which destroyed much of the village. Life here today is simple and peaceful.
We had a barbecue on the beach, under a small wooden shelter. Everything was brought over from the mainland—fresh fish, mie goreng, tofu, tempeh, and rice. Nothing fancy, but everything delicious.
Tanjung Darat: Our favorite snorkeling spot of the day. Clear water, healthy coral, and lots of marine life. A perfect way to end the tour.
After the trip, we headed back to the hotel for cocktails, another round of Monopoly Deal, and a relaxed dinner by the beach.
Day 4: Goodbye Coconut, Hello Labuan Bajo
After one last breakfast at Coconut Garden, we packed up and took a morning flight to Labuan Bajo, ready for the next chapter of our Flores adventure.
Related guides
Interested in exploring more of Flores and Komodo? Check out our other travel guides:
- Flores and Komodo Itinerary: 10-Day Travel Guide
- Moni Travel Guide: Volcano Views, Village Life & Hidden Hot Springs on Flores
- Three Days Sailing Around Komodo
- Labuan Bajo Travel Guide: A Laid-Back Stop Before and After Komodo
Maumere Travel FAQ
Yes—especially if you’re looking to relax by the sea and explore lesser-known snorkeling spots. It’s a peaceful break between Flores’ inland adventures and Komodo’s island-hopping chaos.
Not really. Most travelers stay outside of town, near the coast, where the beaches and resorts are.
You can book a private car by asking your hotel to arrange a driver. The journey takes about 3. There are also buses between Moni and Maumere, but the schedule isn’t really clear as they usually depart from Ende once they are full.
Yes, there are a few dive schools and dive resorts just outside of Maumere.